PLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL

**Definition:** This place covers:

Methods for pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel including of mechanical or physical processing with or without using heat, steam or treatment composition and also the combination thereof.

Apparatus for pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel such as fabric folding mechanisms, pleat forming devices, pleating machines, including kilting machines, pressing patterns, ironing devices specially adapted for forming goffers or pleats, e.g. fluting irons, pleating irons or goffers.

Illustrative examples of the subject matter classified in this place:

1. Pleating

Pleating is a method of an arrangement of fold by doubling the material upon itself and then pressing it into place. The Figure illustrates pleats (13) were formed via rollers (6) and (10).

2. Kilting

Kilting is a method of a perpendicular arrangement of flat, single plaits, each plait being folded so as to cover half the breadth of the preceding one (generally to make three thicknesses of stuff), as on kilt. A system of pleating a kilt in which one full set of the tartan pattern is taken up in each pleat, resulting in a reproduction of the pattern across the back of the kilt. Box pleats or knife pleats are used for pleating a kilt.

3. Goffering

Goffering is the process of creating frills in textile fabrics or wearing apparel so that they are evenly and finely gathered, e.g. make wavy by means of heated goffering iron, or other forms of goffers by pressing or stamping with patterned tools as shown.

4. Pressing or stamping device

5. Goffering scissors

6. Herringbone goffer pattern

7. Forms of pleats or the like, e.g. accordion pleats, kilt pleats, box pleats or goffers

In Figure 7: (a) plain folds or pleats, (b) double folds or pleats, (c) box pleats, (d) double box pleats, (e) rolled pleats and (f) military rolled pleats.

**Limiting references (this place does not cover):** - Pleating or kilting textile fabrics or wearing apparel, by sewing -> D05B

**Glossary:** - goffer (also gauffer): an iron or a heated tool used for pressing ridges or narrow pleats; to make wavy, flute or crimp with a heated iron. An ornamental frill made by pressing pleats; a series of pleats, crimps or flutes. - kilt pleat: a perpendicular arrangement of flat, single plaits, each plait being folded so as to cover half the breadth of the preceding one - kilt: a garment with pleats - kilting: providing a garment with kilt pleats - pleat: a fold in cloth made by doubling the material upon itself and then pressing it into place. Pleats can be pressed (i.e. ironed), non-pressed for round folds or heat-set for sharp creases. - textile fabrics: woven, knitted and non-woven textile fabrics